Discover Cambodia's Hidden Islands: A Journey Back in Time

SEPTEMBER 3, 2024 / 3 MINUTE READ

Ah, Cambodia—the land where time seems to have paused, leaving behind pristine islands untouched by the relentless march of modern development. Yet, you can still sip a decent sauvignon blanc while soaking in the sun. If you're yearning for the untouched charm of the Thai islands from the '90s, let me take you on a journey to Cambodia's captivating coast.

A Journey Begins in Phnom Penh

The adventure starts in Phnom Penh, a city that has gracefully shaken off the dust of its past and emerged as one of Asia's most exciting capitals. Here, you'll find a delightful mix of old and new—14th-century Buddhist temples sit alongside swanky sky bars and gastropubs while markets overflow with everything from live catfish to Russian teapots. And oh, the food! Don't miss the freshwater prawn pancakes—utterly divine.

From Phnom Penh, I embarked on a scenic drive along a new Chinese-built motorway into the heart of the Cardamom Mountains, where I discovered the Edenic hideaway of Shinta Mani Wild. The journey was a feast for the eyes, with lush greenery and occasional glimpses of local life. Arriving at Shinta Mani Wild was a unique experience, as a tranquil paradise of hornbills, banyans, and rainforest sounds greeted me. Days here drift by as you laze on your private deck, dine on exquisite tasting menus, and glide through rivers shaded by tropical greenery.

But then, I ventured to a place that starkly contrasts this idyllic retreat—Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville: The Dystopian Dream

Sihanoukville, or "Snooky" as it's known, has been transformed by a torrent of Chinese investment, resulting in towering skyscrapers and an eerie, almost post-apocalyptic atmosphere. Once a sleepy fishing village, it's now a strange, unpeopled place—a vertical Detroit on steroids, if you will. Most travellers wisely skip this city altogether, heading straight to the islands. And who could blame them?

The Jewel of Cambodia: Koh Rong

A speedboat ride across the Gulf of Siam brought me to Koh Rong, an island so stunning it could rival any of the world's best beaches. Sok San Beach is pure paradise with its seven kilometres of angelic white sand, warm turquoise waters, and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Unlike the Maldives or Thailand, Koh Rong remains blissfully undeveloped—just one luxurious five-star resort, Royal Sands, where you can indulge in fish tacos by the fire pit, and a few other modest resorts. The rest of the island? Untouched jungle, mangrove swamps, and sandy coves that feel like your own private escape.

If you're after an "authentic" backpacker experience, Koh Toch offers that bohemian charm—think Nutella pancakes, barbecued red mullet, and candlelit evenings after the occasional power cut. It's a world away from the luxury of Royal Sands, and the contrast is utterly delightful.

Even More Remote: Koh Rong Samloem

But the adventure doesn't stop there. A short boat ride takes you to Koh Rong Samloem, an even more remote island with excellent snorkelling, serene beaches, and an atmosphere so laid-back it's practically horizontal. I found myself in the tiny village of M'Pai Bay, where time blurs, music drifts under palm trees, and bioluminescent plankton turns nighttime swims into magical experiences. When disturbed, these tiny organisms emit a blue-green light, creating a stunning visual display in the water.

Go Now, Before the Rest of the World Catches On

How long will these islands remain the untouched jewels they are today? It's anyone's guess. Development could come in three years, six, or ten. But for now, they are a haven of tranquillity—94 per cent unsullied but with just enough creature comforts to make your stay delightful.

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